Friday, December 2, 2011

Epilogue


            I don’t think I have ever had a greater experience in my life than being in the great city of Barcelona.  It exceeded my expectations and I created the best memories as well as friends in my entire life.  Firstly, I had never been to Europe before and I had no idea what to expect.  Upon arriving here I immediately was shoved out of my comfort zone and forced to cope with a strange new place where I knew no one and couldn’t tell you where North or South was.  But after 4 months of living here I honestly think I could really inform someone about the city of Barcelona.  One thing that I was appreciative of was that I took some Spanish language classes in high school.  These definitely helped me to immerse myself in Spain and learn the ins and outs of the city.  If I had no previous knowledge of Spanish I think I would have been so lost and it would have definitely changed my experience here.  But I didn’t mind being out of my comfort zone, honestly I wanted to be challenged and uncomfortable because ultimately that’s what builds character and lets you grow as a person.  I could have easily been a roommate with a buddy I know from school who was here as well, but I didn’t do it and I am grateful because I have made some great friends with the kids I lived with while I was here. 
            I fell in love with Barcelona very quickly.  It is my favorite city in the world and sometimes I wish I didn’t have to leave.  Although many other students travelled around Europe, which I did as well, I spent most of my time getting to know the city.  I have seen all the sights, tasted the food, and interacted with the people.  I feel that Barcelona is a part of me that will forever have an impact on who I am and the way I view the world.  Living in Spain has definitely opened my eyes regarding different cultures, ethnicities, and people in general.
            One of the best memories I will take away once I am back in the United States was my time spent at Barca games.  I am a huge football fan and will be for my life.  I have played since I was only 4 years old and wish I could continue to do it until the day I die.  When I first experienced Camp Nou I was astonished.  The sheer size will make anyone’s jaw drop, and then add 100,000 people and the experience grows exponentially better.  I remember the first game I saw was Barca against AC Milan for the first leg of the 2011-2012 UEFA Champions League.  I had great seats and was very close to field.  I could even see the player’s faces.  The greatest moment of that game was when David Villa scored on a free kick from right outside the 18-yard box.  My friend and I were right by the goal when he scored and everyone went insane, I remember it being so loud.  I liked Barca as a team before I came here, but now they are a part of me.  They are MY team.
            In all honesty there is not enough room for me to fit all the great experiences I had while I was in Barcelona.  Leaving this city is going to be bittersweet because I am in love with the city, but I also miss my friends, family, dog, and juicy steaks.  When I arrived in Barcelona I did not really notice a culture shock but I feel that I will have one when I return to the States.  Things will be weird for a while but I’ll roll with the punches.  I am so grateful for this opportunity to live and study in Barcelona; it has been the best time of my life.

News Story 3 Una dirigente vecinal rechaza la medalla que le entregaba Xavier Trias, en protesta por los recortes


            According to this Barcelona article a neighborhood leader has refused the medal that Xavier Trias has presented to her, in her efforts to protest cuts.  The neighborhood leader’s name is Maria Ruiz Martos and has rejected the Barcelona Medal of Honor, which the Mayor has given her in the protest of cuts in health and education.
            Maria is known as La Maruja, Nou Barris, and the leader rejected the award just before it was presented by the mayor of the Catalan capital.  Martos explains, “Personally I cannot accept a government that is cutting through what I’ve fought and fought.”  Martos’ words were greeted with a generous applause from those attending the medal ceremony, and the video is having a great impact on the Internet. 
            Ruis Martos was born in Granada in 1936 and came to Barcelona when shew as very young.  This is where she joined the neighborhood movement during the last years of Franco.  She has been a member of the association of the Nou Barris neighbors since its inception in 1970, and in 1976 participated in an enclosure of family members of Iberian Motor Company, including her husband, when they were to be fired.  After 28 days in a church of Sant Andreu, 300, families, among whom were many women and children, were violently evicted.
            This article is interesting to me because it shows a very political side of Barcelona.  There has, and I feel there always will be, political unrest in a large city such as Barcelona.  Its humbling and reassuring to know that there are still people in the world who are fighting for what they believe in, and most importantly, in a non-violent way.



News Story 2 El metro de nit es manté i el carril bus no servirà per a les motos


            Recently there has been a debate amongst Barcelona’s government concerning the metro and its usage at night, as well as the controversy regarding the bus/taxi lane and its availability to bicycles/motos.  The article explains that the metro will remain open at night despite the circling rumors about cuts to service due to inefficient funds.  Moreover, the municipal government has, “ruled definitely on this measure,” that, “Motorcycles and mopeds cannot continue to use the bus lane; this is debatable because it was a campaign promise.  The principal argument here is that the bus lane has been deemed unsafe in response to many reports from London regarding the increase of the number of accidents and injuries.
            On Wednesday the City pledged to develop a new plan that would, “force local security from next year until 2015.”  The consequence of this will be, “more police presence on the street and the addition of more agents.”
            I agree with the government’s idea to forbid motos in the bus lane because it will increase the general safety of Barcelona and will financially benefit the city (I am assuming a number of lawsuits come in to play here).  Although it will most likely upset many people in the city, they will ultimately be safer and Barcelona will conclusively benefit.  With regards to the City’s pledge to add more police and agents on to the streets, I am not in concurrence.  This seems almost like the beginning of Orwell’s novel 1984, as it mimics a Big Brother scenario.  More police and agents means much more governmental control and this is slightly alarming to me because it reminds me of life under Franco.  Catalonia has been trying, and needs to continue to reinvent itself and gain an identity again, as well as life without repression, censorship, and sovereign power.


New Story 1 Fábregas: "En el Barça siempre estamos obligados a ganar"


Although this article was quite short it was very informative about Barca at the moment.  Recently the club has not been playing too well and has not won games that they fell they should have.  No blame has been put upon anybody and no fingers are being pointed.  It seems the club is collectively trying to cooperate and train harder in order to achieve these necessary wins to catch Real Madrid in the table.  After losing to Getafe, Barcelona fell six points behind Madrid and put themselves in a difficult position.
            Although some may point the finger at Pep Guardiola, the players have complete faith.  After sitting down with Fabregas, FIFA conducted an interview and Cesc says he feels, “very comfortable, really happy.  An individual good start has motivated me a lot this season.”  It is Cesc’s first season with Barca after having played as Captain for the Arsenal squad in London.  Cesc portrayed the team’s collective attitude to win and improve by saying, “I try to be more important.  I have six years in the selection, I have minutes here and there, but it is difficult to prove things with so little time.  In short, I have never complained and never will; I will always be available to be the technician when you need me.”  This quote shows how the players on Barca are willing to work together as a team and forget about being individuals.  This certain attitude is driven by the fans and mostly the club itself.  “Being in a big team acknowledges the pressure to win.  This is Barca, we are obligated to win.  It’s what people expect, forcing us to do what we must to fulfill this.”
            Although Barca has hit some speedbumps in the past couple weeks, things are looking up.  With a fresh win over Rayo Vallacano the club is looking to capitalize on this euphoria and take it into next week against Levante and ultimately in El Clasico against Real Madrid, arguable the biggest rivalry in football.

El Raval



 
          Located just off La Rambla is the area of Barcelona known as El Raval.  Nowadays it is a bustling public area full of cafes, restaurants, and benches for people to eat and relax.  But in the past El Raval was not as beautified as it is now.  A few decades ago El Raval was home to the poorer citizens of Barcelona.  They houses there were crammed into small areas making the streets extremely narrow and the quality of life ultimately sub par.  When the Barcelona Model was introduced it drastically changed El Raval and the lives of its inhabitants
            Although many people were living in El Raval expansion continued.  Houses were knocked down in order to revive the area into a classier looking one.  The Barcelona Model aimed to create social infrastructure, new open public spaces, appealing architecture, and monumental public sculpture, but it also had detrimental effects such as gentrification. Today this result can be seen in La Rambla del Raval.  La Rambla del Raval is in itself new social infrastructure created by the Barcelona Model.  Where La Rambla is today, there were houses in the past that sheltered poor citizens of Barcelona.  Although a new public space was opened up, many people lost their homes due to gentrification.  Monumental sculpture and new architecture also decorate La Rambla del Raval and this can be seen through the giant aluminum looking building as well as El gat del Raval, a giant cat sculpture residing in the area.  The Barcelona Model created all these things in order to improve the standard of living in El Raval.  One of the most famous and important buildings located in El Raval is the hospital where many sick and injured people were sent to recover.  This hospital is an example of the social infrastructure that was added by the Model in order to improve the standard of living and quality of life.  Thanks to this hospital many poor, sick, injured people could recuperate and be back at their normal lives.
            The Barcelona Model had its pros and its cons.  Gentrification was main detrimental effect of the model, because it displaced many people and left them homeless.  Still, sacrifices had to be made in order to benefit the majority of the population and the Model did this with the addition of social infrastructure, new public open spaces, new architecture, and monumental sculpture.

Harbor Project

Harbor Project

The English physicist Sir Isaac Newton stated in his third law of motion that for every action there is an opposite and equal reaction.  This has proved to be true not only in the physics realm, but true to the choices encountered throughout life.  Consequences are inevitable when making decisions, whether they are beneficial or detrimental.  When applying this “law” to Barcelona’s harbor you can view how society’s decisions have shaped the way the city has interacted with the sea as well as initiated urban changes within itself in order to improve the aesthetics of the city.  Looking back throughout Barcelona’s history the harbor has played a significant role in connecting the coastal city to the rest of the world.  During the Late Middle Ages Barcelona was the vessel between two medieval worlds: Islam in the south and Christianity in the north.  Because of its location between the two worlds Barcelona rapidly grew as the trading point between the them, and soon became the greatest maritime power of the Mediterranean.  But Barcelona gained this worthy title despite not having a port to house sea vessels.  Because of this lack of a port the ships that anchored in the city were greatly exposed to storms that destroyed ships right off the city’s coast.  These storms not only sunk ships but also inhibited the city’s ability to build a harbor to provide shelter and facilitate the loading and unloading of cargo supplies because of the large amounts of sand and sediment that were deposited damaged any work that was in progress and/or completed (Port de Barcelona).
The first successful work on the harbor began in 1477 and the plan was to extend a dock reaching the Maians Islands 100 meters off the coast.  In order to create this dock, large amounts of sand were deposited on the beach to the southeast of the Ciutadella.  This helped create Barceloneta, a seafront neighborhood for the refugees of the Ribera neighborhood.  Another problem the harbor encountered was the shallow depth it held which ultimately caused ships to become stuck.  In order to fix this problem, work commenced in 1816 to extend the breakwater so ships could remain afloat.  One of the most important consequences of the harbor project was the creation of the Port of Barcelona Board of Public Works in 1869.  A year previous Barcelona authorities requested permission from the Development Ministry to create this board in order to decentralize the power.  The board remained active until 1978, almost a century after it was created.  Under the Board of Public Works the problems with sand and storms was finally settled due to the construction of the first “transversal dock” in 1882.  This dock later housed the Jaume I cable car, which was built for the 1929 Universal Exhibition (Port de Barcelona).
After years of repression under Franco, Barcelona was ready to reinvent itself in the post-Franco era.  In the midst of a deep economic crisis in 1980, the movement to transform Barcelona into a modern city was in motion.  When Barcelona won the bid to host the 1992 Summer Olympics, it put this movement into full swing.  Barcelona is now seen as an international success story for transforming itself from a “grey” industrial city to a sprawling metropolis sought out by tourists from all over the world (Marshall).  It is important to note how quickly Barcelona was able to complete its metamorphosis and market itself as a reinvented city, all in just over one decade.  A main priority of the city planners and developers was to open the city to the sea.  This required a full-scale operation on the sea front.  For this, Barcelona had a huge amount of industrial space with great potential for urban renewal (Marshall).
Capitalizing on the 1992 Olympic Games, Barcelona drastically transformed its harbor.  One of the main ideas for change in this area was to open up the seafront and make it accessible (Nel-lo).  In order to open the Port up to the city, the area’s infrastructure had to be altered.  The restructuring of the railway system, some place underground, and the sewage system removed barriers to coastal access (Essex).  Also, a new highway system was built underground (Nel-lo).  This highway system allows for high traffic flows without hindering access to the coastline.  A pedestrian bridge, Rambla de Mar, now spans across a section of the sea to an area filled with several new coastal activities.  The restructuring of the transportation systems removed the physical barriers that previously prevented the coastline to be developed for public use.
The opening of the coastline to public access allowed for additional development along the harbor.  The Olympic Harbor was constructed in the freed space.  It has a capacity for 700 boats in the water and 300 on the shore (Nel-lo).  A large portion of the Olympic Harbor was built for public spaces, such as: bars, restaurants, and shops.  A 30 meter wide seafront promenade was built (Nel-lo).  The promenade houses restaurants and commercial spaces.  The rundown beaches were rehabilitated, adding 18 Ha of beaches with piers protecting the sand from being washed away by the currents (Nel-lo).  Across the Rambla de Mar, coastal activities were located to draw tourists and locals.  A shopping mall, aquarium, and I-Max theater are the main attractions placed across the bridge.  New hotels, office, and commercial spaces were also opened up with the construction of two 100 meter high towers (Nel-lo).
The 1992 Olympic Games were the catalyst that sparked the greatest change to the city’s harbor.  Since the 1960s, Olympic Games have been used to trigger large-scale urban improvement (Essex).  The city needed to be cleaned up and rejuvenated prior to the games.  The main objectives of the rejuvenation were: to open the port to the city, to introduce the recreation and leisure activities, and reutilizing the port area, which could house more activities in accordance with its present needs without compromising the harbor character (Wang).  Prior to the Games the beaches of Barcelona were littered with empty warehouses, industrial sites, old fish markets, army barracks, a women’s jail, and in general the beaches were dumping grounds for household rubbish and industrial waste (Oriol Nel-lo).  Consequently the redevelopment of Port Vell has changed many people’s perceptions of the waterfront.  Facilitated public access has allowed people to enjoy the new urban frontier and reshaped the harbor.  Not only did Barcelona consider the technical issues coupled with the renovation, but the aesthetic ones as well when it designed the Rambla de Mar; a pedestrian walkway sprouting from the shore and extends into the water (Wang).  It is necessary to recognize that neither the old beaches nor the local district of Barceloneta had the minimum urban infrastructure required to classify them as safe public areas.  Rather, they were marginal urban spaces, deprived of social and economic investment, despite their lively, popular image.  Today, walking through the public areas of the new seafront and Port Vell one can see proof of the popularity of these newly created urban environments in the increasing numbers of children, and of young and retired people using them.  These places are symbolically justified as collective spaces where individuals co-exist despite their social, sexual, ethical, and political differences (Sanchez).

Works Cited

Essex, Stephen: Olympic Games: catalyst of urban change. Devon, UK: University of Plymoth, 1998. 12-14.

Marshall, Tim: Transforming Barcelona. London, UK: Routledge, 2004.

Nel·lo, Oriol: The Olympic Games as a tool for urban renewal: the experience of Barcelona’92 Olympic Village. Barcelona: Centre d’Estudis Olímpics UAB, 1997.

Sanchez, Antonio: Postmodern Spain: A Cultural Analysis of 1980s-1990s Spanish Culture.  Switzerland: Peter Lang, 2007.

Wang, Chunsong: Waterfront Regeneration. Cardiff, UK: Cardiff University, 2008.

Camp Nou


When one thinks of Barcelona they associate it with football and more specifically FC Barcelona.  One of the places I wanted to visit the most while I was in Barcelona was Camp Nou.  This stadium is sacred ground for me because I live and breathe football.  I have grown up playing football my entire life and have a genuine adoration for the game.  Camp Nou has been the home of Barca since 1957 and seats 99,354, making it the largest stadium in Europe and the 11th largest in the world in terms of capacity.  Camp Nou has housed many football matches, most notably the UEFA Champions League final in 1999, as well as the bronze and gold medal matches of football for the 1992 Summer Olympics.
            When you enter the stadium you immediately gain a realization of how large the building is.  I was amazed by every aspect of the stadium and desperately wanted to touch the pitch but visitors are not allowed to.  While walking around the stadium I constantly wondered what it would be like to play on the pitch with 99,000 fans cheering for you, especially if you scored a goal. 
            Camp Nou not only acts as Barca’s stadium it houses many other events as well.  To name a few: Bruce Springsteen in 1988, U2 in 2009, and Michael Jackson in 1988.  Future plans for Camp Nou include increasing the seating capacity by 13,500 seats making it the third largest in the world next to the Rungrado May Day Stadium in North Korea (150,000) and the Salt Lake Stadium in India (120,000).  If you are a football fan or not I suggest you visit Camp Nou for the experience.  It truly is a historical stadium rich with Catalan history.
 

La Catedral de Sant Eulalia



One of Barcelona’s most famous historical sites is the Cathedral of Saint Eulalia.  It is located in Barcelona’s Gothic quarter next to the ancient Roman ruins.   Upon first glance the sheer size of the cathedral is mesmerizing, but the interior is even more spectacular.  The cathedral was constructed throughout the 13th and 15th centuries, with most of the work being done in the 14th century.  Today the cathedral is under renovation in order to improve and uphold its magnitude and beauty.  The cathedral has a neo-Gothic façade and was constructed over the nondescript exterior that was common to Catalan churches in the 19th century.  The façade is decorated with many carvings and statues of figures, the most notable being Saint Peter.  The cathedral is also topped with gargoyles in the form of animals and mythical creatures.  Gargoyles were thought to keep the evil spirits away, as well as act as a drainage system. 
            The cathedral is in the form of a hall church which has five aisles which are divided by two chapels.  The Cathedral of Barcelona is dedicated to Eulalia of Barcelona, the co-patron saint of Barcelona.  Eulalia was a young virgin, who, according to Catholic tradition, suffered martyrdom during Roman times in Barcelona.  Legend has it that Eulalia was escorted throughout the town in the nude, but miraculously a mid-spring snowfall covered her naked body.  The enraged Romans then shoved her into a barrel full of knives and rolled it down a street, which is now called Baixada de Santa Eulalia.  The remains of Saint Eulalia are entombed in the cathedral’s crypt and remain there as relics.  The cloister of the cathedral contains 13 symbolic geese.  These geese symbolize Eulalia because she endured 13 tortures as well as was 13 years of age when she died.
            Next to La Sagrada Familia, La Catedral de Sant Eulalia is my favorite building in Barcelona.  No matter how many times I walk past it I am awe struck.  It is a beautiful building that symbolizes Barcelona and I recommend that anyone visiting Barcelona see this building.

Correfoc (Cultural Site 3)


During the month of September Barcelona houses its yearly traditional festival called La Merce.  The festival celebrates the patron saint of Barcelona and is filled with many musical performances and traditional spectacles such as the Gigantes and Castellers.  One of the most exciting events of La Merce is the Correfoc which usually concludes the festival.  In English Correfoc translates to “fire run,” and the event is embodied by a plethora of fireworks.  During the correfoc individuals will dress as devils and light fireworks while music is orchestrating the run.  Not only do the devils shoot fireworks but there are also large floats designed as dragons and monsters that shoot fireworks from their mouths.  It is customary for people to dress accordingly and cover up their bodies and then run through the Correfoc making sure not get burned by the sparks.  The entrance of the Correfoc is designed to look like the gates of Hell and prior to the beginning of the run the gates of Hell shoot off many fireworks signaling the beginning of the run.

Personally I participated in the Correfoc and I thought it was an amazing experience.  I have never experienced anything like it before and that is why I was so amazed.  I dressed accordingly but still got a little burned from the fireworks due to the fact that there were so many.  It was almost impossible to not get it.  I think that something like the Correfoc would not happen in the United States solely due to the safety factor.  In the US we are so obsessed with safety that it would get in the way and hinder an American Correfoc from happening.  The Spaniards seemed to enjoy the thrill of being so close to the fire.






Flamenco (Cultural Site 2)


One of the trips that CEA took the students on was to a theater to watch a traditional Spanish flamenco show.  Personally, I was excited to see this show because I was interested in seeing a legitimate part of Spanish culture that is world known.  The show lasted about one hour and was mesmerizing the entire time.  I wish it could have gone on for another hour or so.  The combination of the music and the way the dancers moved was something out of this world.

Flamenco is a genre of music and dance that has Andalusian origins and was revolutionized through Andalusian gypsies.  Flamenco consists of three key parts: the cante (song), toque (guitar playing), and the dance and palmas (handclaps).  These three key components are what give flamenco its distinct flavour.  Although flamenco originated in Spain, recently it has been gaining worldwide popularity and is being taught in many countries.  In Japan flamenco is popular that there are more academies there than in Spain.  On November 16, 2010, UNESCO declared flamenco one of the Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.  Flamenco’s roots trace back to the 18th century where the performers were professionals, as they are now.  In the past the dancers learned from other performers in the form of apprenticeships like the guilds of medieval Barcelona.  Today some artists are still self-taught but most undergo rigorous training in order to become professionals.  The same goes for the guitar players and singers, not only the dancers.  The dance portion of flamenco is known for its emotional intensity and proud carriage.  The dancers use an excessive amount of their arms as well as the stamping of their feet.  At the show we went to there were many solo performances which are more traditional, but there were also many group performances with between two and five dancers at a time.  Each of the dances are highly choreographed and they seem to tell a story.  One aspect I thought was interesting is that the dancers highly react to the audience.  If the audience is cheering loudly then the dancer will perform with more intensity and heart.  It is almost a give and take relationship between the audience and the dancer.

The 19th century Eixample



Just beyond where the old city walls of Barcelona stood is the area called the Eixample.  In Catalan Eixample means, “extension” and this is exactly what the Eixample was when it was constructed.  During the 19th century Barcelona was just becoming a booming city due to industrialization.  The 1888 World Fair was hosted in Barcelona and also led to the city’s new found identity as well as the Catalan search for independence.  Today the monument of Christopher Colombus is still standing as it was at the 1888 World Fair.  Because the city was growing so quickly the government had to intervene and create a new layout for the expansion that was to be built.  After many debates the man Ildefons Cerdà was chosen as the chief engineer who would design the layout of the new extension.  His plan was characterized by long and wide streets, and a strict grid pattern with square blocks and chamfered corners.  Cerdà’s vision was to open up the streets and avenues in order to improve ventilation and increase the amount of sunlight that hit the streets.  Conclusively he wanted to improve the life of the citizens of Barcelona.

The Eixample is embodied by Modernisme works of architecture, particularly the works of Antoni Gaudi, Puig, and Domenech.  The Block of Discord on Passeig de Gracia exhibits the genius of all three men through the architecture masterpieces of Casa Batllo, Casa Mila, Casa Lleo-Morera, and Casa Amatller.  These buildings exhibit the cultural movement called Moderisme that was brought upon by industrialization as well as the Renixenca, which sought for Catalan independence.  Modernisme works of art portray sinuous and dynamic lines that have organic forms derived from nature.  Gaudi’s Casa Batllo creates a story of Saint George slaying the dragon through its creative façade.  The roof of the building portrays the dragon’s scales and the cross atop the building represents Saint George’s lance piercing the dragon.  On the front wall the balconies are modeled to look like human skulls of the dragons victims, and the exterior supports look like human bones.  Conclusively the 19th century Eixample transformed Barcelona as a city not only by appearance, but it also gave Barcelona an identity through Modernisme.